Are you getting a little hot around the collar because of your power bills? As the weather drops and bills rise, you may wonder: what is the most efficient method to use my heat pump?
Heat pumps are one of the most innovative heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems available. They are also a more cost-effective solution than typical electric heating.
To get the most out of your heat pump, choose an efficient model and use it correctly:
- Select the best heat pump model for your needs.
- Make sure your heat pump is cleaned and maintained regularly.
Continue reading to find the top five heat pump hacks that will make the most of your heat pump this winter.
DOs:
- Clean the filter regularly
Circulated air passes through a fine mesh filter inside the heat pump. If blocked with gunk, your heat pump’s heating function will have to work much harder. French Electrical recommends having it serviced by a specialist once a year if you use your system year-round and once every two years if you just cool in summer or heat in winter.
Clean your heat pump filters every three months in between servicing by vacuuming away the dust. Also, keep the area around your outside unit clean by removing any leaves or weeds that have grown there.
- Get familiar with different modes
One size does not fit all when it comes to heat pumps. Take some time to learn about the different heat pump modes and find an ideal for your home and family.
In general, you should avoid using Auto mode and use a Heating mode instead. The heat pump tries to stay at a set temperature and switches between heating and cooling as the room temperature changes in Auto mode. These modifications can waste a lot of energy, making Auto mode an inefficient way to use a heat pump.
Depending on the model, you could also use a “dry mode” to dehumidify a damp room when drying clothes or cooking.
- Consider placement
There are two things to keep in mind – capacity and location.
You will achieve the best results if the size of your potential heat pump will comply with the size of the space you wish to heat. Too small will have to work more to reach the temperature you want; too big will be inefficient because you will have to turn it off frequently to prevent it from overheating.
You can install a heat pump in any room, though keep in mind that the location of your heat pump can have a significant impact on both effectiveness and aesthetics. Keep it away from any seating areas, such as right in front of a couch. It’s hard to relax with a direct airflow in your face. Note: use a high-wall heat pump for this reason.
Choose a floor unit when wall space is limited or unavailable. Example: a bedroom filled with artwork or shelving and no extra space for a heat pump.
Also, think about how much ventilation you want in your house. You may benefit from heat flowing into other rooms if the heat pump is situated facing a corridor or doorways to other rooms.
It might sound too technical at first, but do not panic. French Electrical Auckland electricians will talk you through the best options for your home.
DON’Ts:
- Don’t leave the heat pump running all-day
Even an advanced heat pump, running at full capacity all day and night, will underperform and fail prematurely in the long run. Give it a break now and then! Use a heat pump timer instead. Set it to kick on before you get up in the morning, so your kitchen is cosy and warm when it’s time for breakfast. Then again, just before you go home in the evening. This way your heat pump will be more cost-effective.
- Don’t try to heat too many rooms at once
While many heat pumps can heat numerous rooms at the same time, this isn’t always necessary. Furthermore, heating your home this way may take longer.
Consider dividing your home into sections and focusing on important “hot zones” like the kitchen and the bedroom in the morning. After all, getting out of bed is simpler when your room is warm.
Set your heat pump timer for 45 minutes before bedtime in the evening and keep the heat in by closing curtains and doors.
How a heat pump actually works
A heat pump doesn’t make heat. It moves it. A refrigerant circuit picks up warmth from the outside air — there is usable heat in air well below zero — compresses it, and releases it indoors. In summer the cycle runs in reverse and the same unit pulls heat out of the house.
That distinction is the whole reason heat pumps are cheaper to run than a plug-in heater. Resistive heating is a straight one-to-one trade: one unit of electricity in, one unit of heat out. Because a heat pump transfers heat rather than generating it, it typically returns three to five units of heat for every unit of electricity it draws. The exact figure depends on the model, the outdoor temperature and how well the unit is sized and installed.
Single-split, multi-split or ducted
Most Auckland homes end up with one of three configurations, and the right answer depends on the layout more than the budget.
- Single-split (high wall) — one outdoor unit, one indoor head. The standard choice for an open-plan living area, and usually the most efficient per dollar spent. It heats the room it’s in, and not much beyond it.
- Multi-split — one outdoor unit running several indoor heads. Useful where you want bedrooms covered as well as the living room but only have room for one condenser outside. Each head is controlled separately.
- Ducted — a single concealed unit distributing air through ceiling ducts to vents in every room. It’s the tidiest result visually, since there’s nothing on the walls, and the best option for whole-home comfort. It needs ceiling space and it’s easiest to install during a build or renovation.
Portable units are the fourth option, and they suit renters who want to take the appliance with them. They need no installation, but their heating and cooling output is far lower than a fixed system and they cost more to run for the same effect.
Sizing matters more than brand
An undersized unit runs flat out and never quite gets there. An oversized one short-cycles, wears out faster, and doesn’t dehumidify properly. Sizing depends on room volume, ceiling height, insulation, glazing, and which way the room faces — a north-facing living room with double glazing needs a very different unit from a south-facing one with single glazing and a high stud.
Placement matters too. The indoor head needs clear air movement across the room, not a straight line into a wall or a curtain. The outdoor unit needs airflow around it and should sit away from bedroom windows if noise is a concern. Getting these decisions right at quote stage costs nothing; getting them wrong is a running cost you pay every winter.
Servicing: what a proper annual service covers
Heat pumps are robust, which is exactly why they get neglected. Dust and dirt accumulate steadily on the filters and coils, and the system compensates by working harder for the same output — you pay for that in the power bill long before the unit actually fails.
Cleaning the filters yourself every few weeks through the season is the single most valuable thing you can do. A professional service goes further: checking refrigerant levels, cleaning the indoor and outdoor coils, clearing the condensate drain, checking electrical connections, and testing that the unit is performing to spec. It also catches worn parts before they strand you in the middle of a cold snap, when repair demand is at its peak.
We recommend an annual service if you run your system year-round, and at minimum every two years for lighter use.
A heat pump won’t fix a damp house
If your windows stream with condensation every morning, a bigger heat pump is treating the symptom. Moisture comes from cooking, showering, drying clothes indoors and breathing, and it has to go somewhere. Heating warm, wet air just moves the condensation around.
The Building Code sets a baseline: rooms need natural ventilation through openable windows or doors, and spaces where moisture is generated — kitchens, bathrooms, laundries — need extractor fans that vent outside rather than into the ceiling cavity. Beyond that baseline, a home ventilation system replaces stale, damp indoor air with drier filtered air continuously, so the heat pump is warming air that’s actually dry enough to hold the heat.
Landlords have a further obligation here. The Healthy Homes Standards set specific requirements for fixed heating in the main living room and for extraction in kitchens and bathrooms.
What else keeps the heat in
Heating a leaky house is expensive no matter what you install. Close curtains before dusk so you trap the day’s warmth rather than radiating it out through the glass. Shut doors to rooms you’re not using. Block obvious draughts around doors and unused fireplaces. Aim for 18–21°C in the main living area and at least 16°C elsewhere; every extra degree adds meaningfully to the bill.
If you can’t heat the whole house, heat the living room during the day and the bedroom shortly before you go to sleep — a timer set 45 minutes ahead does this better than leaving the unit running all day.
Getting it done properly
Heat pump installation is electrical work. The unit needs a correctly rated circuit, the outdoor condenser needs safe isolation, and on older Auckland homes the switchboard sometimes needs attention before anything else can be added to it. We handle the electrical side and the install together, which avoids the gap where the appliance is on site and nobody can connect it.
See our heat pump installation page for what we cover, or our pricing page for how we charge. To get a quote or book a job, call 09 274 8082.